Plant Care Guide

WATERING

Learn the water requirements of your plants and water only as necessary.  Check soil moisture level before watering!  Over watering is the most common way to “love your plants to death”.  To check soil for moisture, dig into soil near root zone to a depth of 2–4” for perennials, or approx. 8” for trees and shrubs.  If soil is moist enough to be formed into a ball, that area most likely does not need additional water yet.  If soil is dry and crumbly, it’s time to water.  Another method to check soil is to jab any metal “stick’ (a large, long screwdriver, for example) into the ground around the plant to a depth of approx. 8”, then pull it out.  It will be difficult to insert it into dry soil, easier in moist soil. If it comes out with dirt particles attached to it, the soil is fairly moist; if it comes out clean, the soil is dry.  If you’ve determined that a plant needs watering, water slowly and deeply.  Avoid frequent, shallow watering.

How Much Water Does Your Plant Need?  Low water requirements: 1/4” to 1/2” per week Moderate water requirements: 3/4” to 1” per week High water requirements: 1 1/2” per week During the first growing season, a small sized shrub planted from a one-gallon container will require 4-6 gallons per week. Once established, small shrubs will grow well on two gallons per week. Larger shrubs may need as much as 10 gallons per week. Decrease watering frequency as the shrub matures. Water trees to a depth of 12 inches. General rule of thumb: 10 gallons of water per 1 inch of trunk diameter. Decrease watering frequency as the tree matures. Quick formula: Tree diameter x 5 minutes = watering 10 minutes for a 2 inch diameter tree. In continued dry conditions even older trees will show symptoms of drought stress and will need supplemental water, although less frequently than younger trees. These are general guidelines only, learn the requirements of your plant.

Remember that the terms “drought tolerant” and “xeric plant” have little meaning during the establishment period of a plant.  This period can take 2–3 years for many woody plants, but the majority of plant establishment will take place during the first year after transplanting. You will normally need MORE water on a “drought tolerant” plant during its first year than you’ll use on most any established plant that has moderate water requirements.  It is important that you do not allow the soil of the rootball and surrounding area to dry out completely during its first year.  It is equally important that you do let the soil closely approach dryness between waterings.  Do not water until necessary.  Consistently wet soil leads to quick root death from oxygen starvation.

SPRING WATERING

Nature usually supplies enough spring moisture for the needs of most plants.  Unnecessary spring watering can force plants to break dormancy before nature’s schedule, leaving them more vulnerable to damage from late freezes.  However, DO continue a monthly watering of plants if natural moisture is lacking.  New plantings will need watering if the soil is not moist.

SUMMER WATERING

Water as needed, as infrequently, deeply and slowly as possible.

AUTUMN WATERING

Beginning in September, start decreasing your watering frequency slowly, thereby encouraging plants to go dormant.  Generally, at October’s end, your plants should be receiving deep moisture once every 3 weeks.

PRUNING

Do not prune newly planted trees or shrubs at planting time, nor during their first full year in their new home, unless it is to remove damaged or dead branches.  Pruning for all other reasons can begin in year two.

FALL CLEAN UP

Rake, remove and dispose of fallen leaves from deciduous trees that exhibited a problem with any diseases during the growing season.  Aspen trees, for example, often have one of many black spot fungal diseases which over-winter in fallen debris.  Remove as many fallen leaves as possible each year to reduce infections in following year.